celebrating the beauty of food

In case you hadn't guessed it yet, I love food. Food is so important in my life that I also decorate the house with it. Not all over, of course (no apple basket in the bedroom or kiwi display in the bathroom). I mean in the living/dining/kitchen area, where we are inspired to eat it or cook with it (and won't forget about it).When I return with lots and lots and lots of produce from our once-a-month food coop delivery, or from a trip to Trader Joe's to get my organic in-between-deliveries fruit, I pile it up on bowls and platters and display it on countertops and tables. I play with the colors of the produce and match, complement or juxtapose it with the colors of the vessels.  The yellow leopard bowl goes well with the yellow of the bananas and the muted green avocados; I like the linear cardboard container the brownish-reddish kumato tomatoes lie in like peas in a pod just the way it is; and I picked the silver bowl this week for apples and kiwis next to the silver candle holders.  

Especially now, towards the end of winter, when we are beginning to crave color, but are still a month away from the spring bulb flowers, produce colors look gorgeous.  Don't hide it in the fridge, play with it, display it, celebrate and enjoy it.

tasting soil and climate

As our culture becomes increasingly interested, sophisticated and educated in all things food, you may stumble upon the word terroir on this side of the Atlantic. It is a typically French term connected to that country's deep and intense food culture.  The idea behind fast food is the exact opposite of what terroir expresses. Fast food companies want to assure you of the exact same hamburger or French fries taste regardless of whether you buy it in Beijing, Moscow, Los Angeles or Buenos Aires - worldwide uniformity of taste.  Terroir, on the contrary, celebrates the unique combination of local soil and climate conditions in a particular area, and how they influence the foods grown there.

Terroir is perhaps easiest to understand in connection with wine because we know from experience that the same grape type, say a Chardonnay, grown in different geographical places will yield very different tasting wines. That is the reason why the French don't label their wines by grape type, as we do here, but by provenance, such as Château Lafite or Saint-Aubain, Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, which, of course, requires a vastly larger knowledge base.

Beyond wine we have come to be aware of terroir influence on food as it relates to chocolate (Trader Joe's offers a chocolate passport that features small chocolate samples from eight different cocoa bean growing countries in the world), honey (depends on the type of flower nectar collected), and single-malt whiskeys (depends a lot on the local water). But terroir also comes out in the taste of meat. The Spanish Jamón Ibérico, for example, is prized for its particular taste that comes from the black pigs' natural diet of grass, herbs and acorns, specific to that region in southern Spain. Locally, I have bought organic chickens from two different farmers. Both taste and texture of the meat, and even the shape of the chickens, were vastly different, even though the two farms are not even twenty miles apart.

Coffee connaisseurs always say that water can make or break a good cup of coffee.  City water usually has added chlorine and often fluoride, which alter the taste of the water, while local well water tastes different from one well to the next, depending on its particular mineral content.  Local food is so much more complex and exciting! Happy tasting!

relish your eggs, yolk and all

         Egg whites sans yolk became the virtuous thing to eat in recent years because of the misguided cholesterol scare (I recently wrote about the fat myth). I find egg whites by themselves bland and love my yolks. Rather, I live for the yolk and eat the white just because it happens to come with it, although egg whites do have their place in chocolate mousse and meringues. The deep yellow oozy yolk, warm and runny, is just soooo delicious (see a post on my soft spot for soft boiled eggs). Egg yolks were vilified by a culture that was quick to believe one-sided and misinterpreted scientific tests, and valued scientifically engineered food products over what nature made. The food industry saw a quick profit in our fear of cholesterol (take a look at information from the Weston Price Foundation on the misguided cholesterol myth). Hence those egg white omelets, and egg products like desiccated egg white powder, substitute egg mix, and liquid egg whites in a carton.

         Not only are eggs one of the healthiest foods on earth, they are also a brain food, provide one of the highest levels of protein, and are an excellent source of vitamin D (eat more of them in the wintertime when you don't get out into the sun as much) and minerals. The much bigger problem is the low quality of eggs coming from industrialized mass egg productions and the egg products made from them. Do eat eggs, but buy them from a local farmer who lets the chickens roam and eat grubs (see a blog post on that as well).  If you want to save food $ consider cutting back drastically on your meat consumption and getting more of your protein from the best quality eggs you can find.

In the end, we are better off looking at the causes of cardio-vascular and heart disease from an emotional perspective, which merits a blog post in itself, rather than making cholesterol the culprit.  So - have your eggs and eat them too!

making mayonnaise

Deep living to me also means making more food from scratch instead of buying the store bought version. Leading a busy life (and we all do) often becomes an excuse for reaching for convenience, but some things are just so easy and quick to make that there isn't much of an excuse, and the quality of taste and ingredients is so far superior. Mayonnaise is one of those things that takes only minutes to make - literally! My mayonnaise has exactly four ingredients: one large egg(if your egg is small use a little less oil, otherwise your mayonnaise becomes runny), 300ml oil (olive oil if you like a stronger taste, or grapeseed oil for a more neutral mayonnaise, or a combination), juice of one lemon, and a heaping tablespoon of Dijon mustard, which provides enough salt, so no additional salt needed.  In comparison, Hellman's has nine ingredients and uses soy oil (GMO for sure), vinegar instead of lemon, sugar (sugar in mayonnaise???) and salt, besides preservatives and "natural flavors."

Here is the 5-minute process for a bowl of the yummiest homemade mayonnaise. And if you remember ahead of time, do take the egg and mustard out of the fridge beforehand so all ingredients are at room temperature. Put the (big) egg, the mustard, the lemon juice and about a tablespoon of the oil in a food processor and let run for a minute or so. Next, drip 50ml of the oil really really slowly into the food processor while it is running - my almost-30-year-old Cuisinart has a drip top especially made for making mayonnaise so you can let the machine do the dribbling while you do something else. Finally, add the other 250ml of oil in a thin steady stream to the running machine. Ready! Five minutes tops!

We Europeans like mayonnaise on our French fries (so much better than ketchup, at least that's what we think) and with cold lobster or crab (no drawn butter, please). But it's also delicious on a sandwich with leftover chicken or turkey, or with other cold leftover meat. And one of my secret snack vices, when I need a quick pick-me-up and I do happen to have a bowl of mayonnaise in the fridge, is to take a cracker (or two, or three) or a piece of bread (toasted is better) and dunk it into this onctuous sauce. Soooooo good! Once you make it you'll never go back to store bought.

less (food) waste

We are not always aware of the abundance we live in, and grateful and thankful for it. As a result we create a lot of waste, personally and as a culture. This is the first of several blog posts on becoming more aware of the abundance that surrounds us and at the same time reducing waste in different area of our lives. Why waste reduction? When we respect something, when we are truly appreciative of it, then we handle it with a certain reverence and wouldn't carelessly throw it away. That goes for food as it does for other things in life. Sometimes one of my kids will come home and put their school sandwich back in the fridge. Now what? I have repackaged them the next day but often end up eating them myself so they don't go to waste. When my son was much much younger he threw out a perfectly good (wrapped) sandwich he did not care for. I was so incensed that I made him take it out and eat it - he still talks about it.

With a bit more reverence for all the food we have (just today it struck me at the supermarket how much food we have access to so easily, what abundance!) let's try to reduce food waste, the first of the wastes I will be addressing. One rule is to be a good leftover processor - eat them, freeze them, or cook them up with something new, but don't let them go bad. I save leftover bread pieces in the freezer until I have enough to make a sweet or savory breakfast strata. My mom makes a "tapas" meal every so often with all the little frozen leftover dishes. If you do buy produce in bulk, like I do, process those vegetables you can't eat right away by blanching and freezing them as meal building blocks for later use, or cooking them up in a soup or stew to be frozen. If food does go bad in your fridge reduce how much you buy or space your supermarket trips further apart. And how about going through your fridge once a week and either making a meal from all the leftovers right then or freezing what you can't use immediately?

We have so much, let's be grateful for it.

healthy eggs from healthy chickens

I go out of my way to buy healthy eggs from healthy chickens from sane farmers, which means I avoid buying eggs, even organic ones, from the supermarket if I can help it at all (organic eggs don't necessarily come from better treated chickens, they only eat a different diet). That has not been so easy lately as chickens naturally reduce their egg production during the cold dark months and our family's need for eggs goes up with all the holiday baking between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Commercial chicken labeling, such as cage free, free range and even pasture raised, is pretty meaningless once you delve deeper (follow the link for more info). These terms mean next to nothing and it's all about laying more and more eggs at the expense of the chickens' health and wellbeing (the horrors the horrors, so sad - follow this link for more info on that).

Pretty much the only way to assure that the chickens whose eggs you eat are tended to respectfully, and that their egg production is not exploitative but cooperative, is to get them locally. We have several farmers in the area who sell eggs, and I also buy them from chicken keeping friends when they have a surplus (but that is not in the winter time). So I know how those chickens live, how they are treated and what they eat.

This past week we were out of eggs and I couldn't get myself to buying them from the supermarket, although that would have been more convenient. Instead, I called the local farmer I usually go to, preordered 4 dozen eggs (they keep), and waited a few days until he had gathered enough, then finally drove to the farm to pick them up (and return the old egg cartons so they can be reused). Sometimes it's a bit of a pain in the neck to live by what you believe in.

pie night

Family traditions are wonderful. They have so much meaning because they are particular to each family and therefore unique. You can even create your own, modify the ones from your family, or simply keep the ones you like and pass them down to your children.  Holiday traditions also ground you in your cultural heritage. And what's best about beloved family traditions is that you can look forward to them each year because they will keep coming back again and again. There is comfort in knowing that and traditions give you a sense of belonging, something that is even more important for children than for adults. My husband's family used to do Pie Night on the Tuesday before Thanksgiving. All the pies for Thanksgiving dinner for 35 or so people would be made that night. Crazy! It was my husband's dad who was in charge. Pie night was his thing. It was a beloved family tradition for many many years, especially the children loved it of course. So many pies would be made that people could take leftovers home.

We have been trying to keep Pie Night, but seem to have to modify it each year to accommodate busy work schedules. This year we are having three Pie Nights. It is important for us that everything gets made from scratch, and since the crusts are all different there is no way to shorten the process assembly line style - hence three nights.  Last night, on Pie Night #1, we made cranberry tartes. Tonight, on Pie Night #2, we will make maple syrup pie and pumpkin pie with hazelnuts, and tomorrow,on Pie Night #3, we will make apple galettes.

What Thanksgiving traditions do you cherish?

yummy soil

Big-food (the industrial food producers) attempts to compare the difference between organic and non-organic food by asking the wrong questions (on purpose) - whether organics taste any different from non-organics, and whether there is a difference in the nutritional content. Tastewise there may or may not be much of a difference. Regarding the nutritional content, if you simply count the calories and other building blocks you may not find that much of a difference either. The most important difference between organics/biodynamics (a sort of Über organics - see a previous post on that) and non-organics has to do with soil and micronutrients.

For one, non-organic produce has pesticide residue on the outside. But perhaps more importantly, non-organic produce grows in depleted soil that must be enhanced with chemical fertilizer. And to top if off (pun intended), it gets treated topically with fungicides, pesticides and herbicides, all of which seep into the soil. The produce then absorbs this chemical cocktail through the roots, which becomes part and parcel of the produce you eat, an issue the two questions diplomatically leave aside.

Soil that gets enhanced naturally with manure and compost is inherently much richer in minerals and trace elements and devoid of chemical toxins. You know if you have such soil in your home garden if it is dark and crumbly and full of happy little creepy crawlies. It should look like Mississippi Mud Pie. Produce that grows in such Mississippi Mud Pie soil is in turn much richer in minerals and trace elements. It is this richness that makes such food packed with real nutritional value.  Not only is it much more nourishing, we also need to eat less of it (!) to feel satisfied. No empty calories here.

So even though our soil has been depleting steadily with the advent and the spreading of industrial agriculture over the past hundred or so years, it is still better for our health to opt for organically, or better yet, biodynamically grown produce and grains.

ditch your microwave

In the name of speed we often enthusiastically adopt new technologies without fully knowing their effects and implications. Microwave ovens are ubiquitous in office pantries and kitchens, and are practical for quickly heating up a cup of soup or leftovers, or thaw frozen food you forgot to take out last night. Some people are even cooking in their microwave to reduce kitchen time, such as for making baked potatoes, which would otherwise take well over an hour in the oven.

Growing up in Europe we never had a microwave at home. And I ditched the one and only I ever owned about 20 years ago and don't really miss it.   At the time it hadn't been proven that microwaved foods were safe to eat.  Now we know that microwaving food alters its molecular structure, rearranging the food's biochemistry, and with it our blood chemistry (!!). In addition to what it does to your food, which has of course an effect on your body, we also know that the electro-magnetic field of a microwave, even if it doesn't leak, has health implications. See a comprehensive article in the HuffPost on the whole microwave issue.

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  It's no big deal to live without a microwave oven. I reheat a single cup of tea or soup in a very small casserole on the stove on simmer - doesn't take much more than the minute it takes in the microwave.  I try to remember to take my frozens out ahead of time so they can thaw in the fridge. But if I do forget I either thaw them in a big bowl in room temperature water, or I simply leave it out on the counter to thaw (I know I know, those bacteria scare tactics, but I am alive and well, and I don't make a habit of it). Soup or broth can be thawed on the stovetop on simmer as well. And frozen vegetables go right into a casserole with a bit of water or butter on low. Leftovers, such as casseroles without liquid, go in the oven to reheat. As for popcorn - put a generous tablespoon full of oil in a large casserole, add 1/3 cup of popping corn, close the lid, put on the stove on high, and in less than five minutes your popcorn au naturel is ready. Sprinkle with some salt, some parmesan cheese, some nutritional yeast, or whatever else strikes your fancy (cumin gives it a TexMex taste). It doesn't get much faster than that (and it won't rearrange your blood chemistry).

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why heirlooms?

Heirloom fruit and vegetables are older varieties that will reproduce exactly the same kind of plant again from its seeds (hybrids can't).   Biodiversity is also a very important reason to choose heirlooms over hybrids (and let me not even mention the G word), as we need as many plant varieties around as possible, and especially those that grow well under specific local or strained weather conditions. As a matter of fact, I read somewhere that Peruvians have almost as many potato and corn varieties as growing places, because these plants were all developed for very specific local conditions, and would not perform as well if planted elsewhere. Now that is biodiversity!  In addition, heirlooms are often more disease resistant and have more intense flavors - think intensely flavorful strawberry or tomato instead of those watery spongy supermarket kinds. There are now even seed libraries to preserve heirloom varieties for future use and generations. Sometimes you can draw from them, but you have to return seeds at the end of the season in exchange for your loan. Lastly, it is infinitely more interesting to taste many different pepper or tomato or apple or carrots kinds (love the purple carrots) than the one or two same old same old you get at the supermarket.

Hybrids, in comparison, while having some desirable characteristics, can't reproduce from their seeds - think of seedless watermelons or grapes.

And by-the-way, heirloom breeds exist among animals as well, and some farmers are now bringing these older breeds back for the same reasons heirloom produce is desirable.